Follow Along our Travels!

Lofoten is one of those places that you fall in love with over highly curated Instagram photos. More accurately, my husband fell in love this location over the internet. This was well over 5 years ago that he started sending me photos of the insane vistas from the top of the mountains surrounding the fjords. But like most pictures I see on the internet from travel influencers, I was skeptical that the reality would live up to the expectations. It took us around 4 years to get this trip on the books (Lofoten is VERY far from Southern California) and in that time I kept seeing more of the gorgeous photos of the landscape. So, the question is, did the hype meet expectations? 100 percent. No notes.

As I mentioned in my previous post, we actually did this trip as part of a larger trip since the thought process was that we will probably never be back to this area of the world and want to explore as much as possible. Well, now that we’ve been there, we will definitely be back but it was a nice thought in theory. However, I bring this up because getting to Lofoten is a little challenging (and even more challenging depending on what time of year you decide to go). The following section, I’ll detail some of the logistics that were involved in this trip. Then I’ll go into my highlights and tips per usual.

Lofoten, Norway – Getting Here

Lofoten is an archipelago in the northern part of Norway. It is actually above the Arctic Circle and features some super dramatic fjords, mountains and water as far as the eye can see. There are a couple of options for getting to this area. During the summer months (and winter too although this sounds sketchy) you can fly to Bodø (big city in Norway) and then take a ferry over to Moskenes. There are also two regional airport in Lofoten which require small engine airplanes. Or you can do what we did and fly into Harstad/Narvik from a major airport (in our case, Copenhagen) and drive around 3ish hours to get to the start of Lofoten.

We opted for the last option as we felt more comfortable with that given that it was September and we were unsure what the ocean/weather would bring (even though I love ferries!). The drive from there was easy as well. I loved it because I had never been to Norway and while this drive isn’t the roads of Lofoten, it is still beautiful and I think a great introduction to what is to come.

The islands/municipalities of Lofoten are connected via several roads but it takes approximately 3-4 hours to drive between all of them. There are only two main “cities” in the archipelago but even these are fairly small. You can see from our itinerary that we chose to stay at the “beginning” of the island chain, then shoot all the way to the end for a couple of days and then work our way back.

You may be wondering if 7 nights in this area is overkill since it is not that big of an area. Honestly, I think it is about right for a couple of reasons:

What is the best time of year to go to Lofoten? I have obviously only been there once but I was very happy with early September since the crowds were not really a big deal and the weather/temperature was manageable. This area of Norway is famous for Midnight Sun and I admit that it would be pretty unique to hike at midnight in sunshine, but I know this is a very popular time to go that would take a lot more preparation (and patience). I really want to go back in March when there is still snow on the mountains, but the weather is still fairly mild (by Arctic Circle standards) and the sun still peaks out for part of the day.

Our Lodging

I never do this in my blog posts but we stayed in some amazing places while in the Lofoten area and I feel like they need to be highlighted separate from the itinerary. These accommodations are elevated but not over the top expensive:

• Henningsvær Bryggehotell: This hotel is on a fishing pier in Henningsvaer. The hotel is immaculately appointed. It embodies Nordic design simplicity while showcasing the landscape and natural beauty of the area. When we come back, I’ll stay here longer. It is walkable to restaurants and shops in town but it also has a great restaurant as part of the hotel. I loved that it was right on the pier and you got to see boats coming/going.
• Hemmingodden: We stayed in one of their mini-rorbus. This is basically a tiny home on stilts above the water with the best views you could imagine. It was unique but at the same time, felt very accurate to the fishing village that is Hemmingodden. This location is also about 10 minutes from a bigger town (with more accommodations) but I highly recommend this place if you want a unique experience where you feel immersed in the village culture.
• THIS AirBnB in Vågan: Whew, this might be the nicest AirBnB I’ve ever stayed in. Again, the simple but elegant Norwegian design was evident throughout the house through the furnishings, well appointed kitchen and art on the walls that is available for purchase. There is a full kitchen, insane views off the living room, comfortable beds (multiple). But what really makes this place incredible is the deck. The deck offers 360 degrees view to take the Lofoten islands, but also Norway’s mainland. There is a spa that we spent hours in up here. Honestly, a real gem that should be considered for any stay in the area.

Highlights

This is going to be very hiking focused since that’s what we did most of this trip. But the reason those Instagram photos are so popular and draw you to the place is the ability to climb the mountains surrounding the fjords and get the views. One thing to know about hiking in this area of Norway is that low milage does not equal easy (no matter what the locals tell you). Some of these hikes only clock in at 3 miles, but essentially you are walking 1.5 miles straight up. We joked often that the only way to prep for Norway hiking would be to set your Stairmaster for 2 hours and go. Were the hikes worth the pain? Again, absolutely. Here are my must dos if you come here (I also highlighted all the hikes we did in the itinerary):

1. Ryten: I loved this hike because of the views throughout were changing and dynamic. It is a mostly steady climb and well maintained though there are some muddy spots. I say mostly steady climb because the end of the hike to the top really boosts up the heartrate — both because it gets steeper but also because it is more slippery/less stable footing. However, it is totally worth it to view the area and get a peak down to Kvalvika beach. If you are brave, you can post up on some rocks that are on the edge but you feel as if you have the place to yourself.
2. Fløya and Djevelporten (the Devil’s Gate): This was our first hike in the area and it was a great introduction to what to expect from hikes in Norway. It starts with stairs that go straight up. Then it transitions to more of a trail/rock scrambling before getting to more stairs before Devil’s Gate. The gate is a popular picture spot (you can see ours!) but the real tip is to keep going. It is a little sketchy so make sure it is not wet/raining but totally worth it if it is doable. You get to Floya peak and this gives the most incredible view of the water, mountain peaks and fjords. Simply stunning.
3. Reinebringen: Saved my favorite for last. Now this hike has nearly 2000 steps to get to the top. That’s right, thanks to some Nepalese sherpas, there are steps up the side of the mountain. These steps are not equal in height and definitely kick your butt/thighs on the way up. 1000% worth it so take your time and get to the top. At the top is the iconic view of Reine and the fjords that make up this area. It can get very crowded at the very top so I recommend (if you can stomach it) to go a little further. It is on a ridge so it is a little scary if you are afraid of heights (I am!), but it is doable to go a little further and get some peace to enjoy what ended up being the best view of our whole trip.

Other highlights:

• Trollsfjord Cruise: This was totally worth the price and doing! There are a lot of options for this cruise (including an inflatable raft!) but I really liked the one we chose. The boat was large which is good since the water was a little choppy getting out of the harbor, but it was small enough to get all the way back into the Trollsfjord. Plus we got to see Sea Eagles! I love eagles. This was a great way to spend an afternoon.
• Kayak: We got very lucky when we were in Reine area with two very sunny days. We took advantage of this and booked a kayak tour through one of the hotels. The view from the water looking up at Reinebringen (the mountain) we hiked the day before was equally impressive. If the weather cooperates while you are there, I recommend getting onto/into the water for a different perspective from the hikes.
• Holmen Restaurant: This tiny restaurant in the middle of nowhere was one of the best dining experiences I’ve ever had. It was 7 course that were perfectly reflective of the area. The food was beautifully presented and absolutely delicious. It was a great experience and because of the location, totally unexpected. I would recommend for a nice night out!

Weather

Again, not typical of me to highlight this but when you venture into the Arctic Circle, I feel you must touch on the weather and the requirements in dealing with it. We were here during September and were not sure what to expect. We lucked out with about 4 of the 7 days being mostly sunny. Unlike the Faroe Islands that has a consistent average of rain/sun days, Lofoten is very variable (according to the locals). For example, the year we went (2025), they had a miserable July (cold and rainy) and summer really only started in August. However, the week before we were there (so last week in August) it was back to rain so they assumed it was already transitioning to winter. But one of the days we were there, I was hiking in a tank and shorts (weather was around 72 degrees F). The next two days, I was in a puffer and rain jacket. Bottom line, expect it all if you go in September. Also, don’t expect all sun in summer or all clouds in winter. Apparently March sees some of the sunnier days. And that is when I want to go on our next trip!

Tips

• Take the hiking books lengths/difficulty descriptions with a grain of salt – This is kind of a joke but also not really. There was one hike we did that was described as “easiest hike on this side of the island”. Now, maybe that is true for locals, but honestly this hike was straight up and we had to trailblaze on part of it due to mud/rain affecting the trail. In general, besides Reinebringen the trails are rugged and should be approached slowly and with caution. Just because everyone does it, doesn’t mean it is easy or should be approached that way. And this tip is coming from two people that are in good shape and hike often.
• Northern Lights – No we did not see them (otherwise this would be in highlights!), but we sure tried. Unfortunately, we never had magic combo of truly clear skies at night + a geomagnetic storm that produced visible light. However, we did find a couple great apps/websites (Norway Lights and Aurora Norway) for if you are lucky. I know there are tours in the area that promise Northern Lights but I’m not sure how much confidence to place in those. I think part of the magic of them is being in the right place at the right time!
• Because of social media, this area has become very popular, very quickly. Hotels, restaurants and AirBnBs are trying to keep up with demand, but things book quickly and honestly these town are just small and not meant for 1000+ visitors a day. In the summer, van life is very popular. There are signs everywhere about no parking on streets, packing out trash, respecting the local neighborhoods, etc. I mention this because we had a couple of encounters with some people in local neighborhoods that were not thrilled to see tourist wandering about. We were respectful and on main roads or in our AirBnB (nothing private) but were still spoken to. This is just a reminder to have patience and be respectful — especially if you are there during high season.